What types of pearls are there?
First, it helps to understand the terminology.
Natural pearls
Natural pearls form inside a mollusk without human intervention. They are rare and particularly valuable.
It is important to understand that if a seller specifically claims to offer rare natural pearls, that origin should ideally be supported by a report from a competent gemological laboratory.
Cultured pearls
Cultured pearls are grown in mollusks with human involvement.
Specialists create the conditions that initiate pearl formation, after which the mollusk forms the pearl through its own biological processes.
Cultured pearls are real pearls, not artificial imitations.
Cultured pearls account for most of today's pearl jewelry market. They make beautiful pearl jewelry available at more accessible prices than rare natural pearls.
Artificial pearls, or imitations
An imitation is a bead that looks like a pearl but is not a pearl formed by a mollusk.
Glass, plastic, shell materials and special coatings may be used to make them.
Some imitations look quite convincing, especially in photographs.
Can you distinguish real pearls from imitations at home?
Several visual clues may suggest an imitation. None, however, is universal proof.
1. Look at the surface
Real pearls often have subtle surface characteristics: small irregularities, natural variations in shade and growth features.
An artificial coating sometimes looks overly uniform.
High-quality cultured pearls can also be very smooth, however. A flawless-looking surface alone therefore does not mean a pearl is an imitation.
2. Assess the luster
The luster of a quality pearl has depth. Light interacts with the layers of nacre as well as reflecting from the outer surface.
Some imitations have a luster that appears more superficial.
Modern coatings can be highly convincing, however, so luster alone cannot support a definitive conclusion.
3. Examine the drill hole
For a pearl strand, it is useful to look closely at the drilled area.
Coated imitations sometimes show chipped or peeling coating, or a different material underneath the outer layer.
GIA researchers have described similar features in shell pearl imitations.
However, an absence of chips does not prove that pearls are real.
4. Do not rely on the “tooth test”
Online advice often suggests gently rubbing a pearl against a tooth and judging its authenticity by its roughness.
We do not recommend this method as a reliable test.
It cannot reliably establish whether a pearl is natural or cultured, and it can be unpleasant, unhygienic and potentially harmful to the jewelry's surface.
5. Do not test pearls with fire, acid or scratching
These experiments can damage jewelry and are not appropriate ways to check a piece before purchase.
It is especially important to protect pearls from harsh chemicals.
Can you distinguish natural from cultured pearls by sight?
As a rule, origin cannot be reliably established from appearance alone.
Gemological laboratories examine the pearls' internal structure for this purpose.
GIA uses X-radiography and, in complex cases, X-ray computed microtomography. These methods reveal features of pearl formation without destroying the pearl.
That is why even an experienced professional should not promise completely certain identification of natural origin from a photograph.
What should you look for when buying pearl jewelry?
Start by studying the product description.
Ideally, it should include the pearl type, size, shape, color, setting material and other essential characteristics.
Actual photographs and videos of the jewelry in different lighting are useful too.
If a seller promises rare natural pearls, ask what evidence confirms that origin.
If the piece contains cultured pearls, this is a perfectly normal, fully established category of fine jewelry.
The PEARLS LAB approach
We believe buyers should understand what they are paying for.
Our role is therefore to help you understand pearl characteristics and make an informed choice, as well as to show beautiful jewelry.
Real cultured pearls are valued for their natural formation, depth of luster, range of shades and unique beauty.
Choose pearls for clearly explained characteristics and the quality of the jewelry itself, rather than extravagant promises.
Frequently asked questions
Are cultured pearls real or artificial?
Real. A mollusk forms them with human involvement.
Can natural pearls be identified from a photograph?
No. Natural origin cannot be reliably confirmed from a photograph.
Are all perfectly round pearls artificial?
No. High-quality round pearls occur among cultured pearls.
Which cost more: natural or cultured pearls?
Rare natural pearls are usually substantially more expensive, but the price of a particular piece depends on many characteristics and confirmed origin.
Can a shell pearl be an imitation?
Yes. Some products called shell pearls are coated shell-material beads and are not cultured pearls.